How to choose a face serum: what each ingredient type is

A face serum is a small bottle with a long ingredient list. This guide sorts the common ingredient types into groups so you can compare serums by what is in them. It describes ingredients only and does not promise results.

Water-binding ingredients

Hyaluronic acid, glycerin and propanediol are in this group. Our EvenWell Hyaluronic Acid Serum lists water, propanediol, glycerin and four forms of hyaluronic acid. Our 10% Niacinamide Serum lists glycerin, propanediol and sodium hyaluronate next to its main ingredient.

Vitamins and vitamin forms

Niacinamide is vitamin B3. Panthenol is provitamin B5. Vitamin C shows up in several forms, such as L-ascorbic acid, 3-glyceryl ascorbate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate on our Vitamin C Serum, or 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid on our Vitamin Glow Serum. Vitamin E is usually listed as tocopheryl acetate.

Botanical extracts

These are plant extracts listed by Latin name, such as chamomile (Chamomilla recutita) flower extract and calendula flower extract. They are often in small amounts, near the end of the list.

Oils and lipid-type ingredients

Linoleic acid and phospholipids are on our Vitamin Glow Serum list. Heavier oils are more common in creams than in light serums.

Texture and preservative ingredients

Xanthan gum and similar ingredients thicken a serum, and phenoxyethanol or ethylhexylglycerin keep a water-based product preserved. These are normal near the end of a list.

How to compare two serums

• Read the first five ingredients to see the base.
• Look at the ingredient groups above and note which ones the serum has.
• Check for fragrance if you want to avoid it. Our Vitamin C Serum lists fragrance, and our Vitamin Glow Serum, Niacinamide Serum and Hyaluronic Acid Serum show no fragrance entry.
• Check the size and how many drops or how much to use. Our Vitamin Glow Serum uses 3-4 drops, and the Niacinamide Serum directions say a pea-sized amount.
• Read the warnings, such as avoiding sun exposure after the Vitamin C Serum.

Add one at a time

If you try a new serum, add one product at a time and patch test first on your inner forearm for 24 hours. Stop use if irritation occurs. Our EvenWell serum layering order article has a simple order to follow.

Questions people ask

Do I need more than one serum?

No. One serum that matches your list preferences is enough to start with.

Which ingredient type should I look for?

That depends on what you want from your routine. Use the groups above to see what a serum contains, and see the product page for the full list.

Does a higher number mean better?

A number such as 10% on a name tells you the amount of one ingredient, and does not tell you how a product will feel on your skin.

When do I apply a serum?

Follow the directions on the product page. Our Vitamin Glow Serum directions say to apply after cleansing, and our Hyaluronic Acid Serum directions say to apply to clean, dry skin.

EvenWell Hyaluronic Acid Serum · 10% Niacinamide Serum · Vitamin C Serum · Vitamin Glow Serum · EvenWell serum layering order · Take the 60-second quiz